This free car emergency kit checklist covers the roadside safety, jump-start, repair, and cold-weather gear that keeps a breakdown from becoming a crisis.
A car emergency kit gets judged on three scenarios, and most kits handle one. The flat tire on a dry shoulder in daylight is the easy case. The dead battery in a parking garage at night is the second. The third is the one people are least ready for: stopped on a busy road in the dark, or stuck in the cold, where being seen and staying warm matter more than any tool in the trunk.
Visibility decides more than any tool in the kit, because the real hazard in a breakdown is passing traffic rather than the fault itself. Placement distances for warning devices vary by state and by vehicle type, so follow the instructions supplied with yours rather than a number you half-remember. A jump pack has largely replaced cables, since cables need a second vehicle and a stranger willing to stop. A kit also fails if it is buried: the window breaker and seatbelt cutter belong in the cabin, because their whole purpose is being reachable when you cannot get out.
Check the kit twice a year when the clocks change. Batteries die, sealant expires, and a jump pack left uncharged for two years does nothing at all.
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01
Roadside Safety
Being seen is the first job at any breakdown. Follow the placement instructions supplied with your warning devices and your state's rules for stopped vehicles, and call 911 or roadside assistance rather than working it out yourself on a live road.
A jump pack works without a second vehicle, which is what earns it the space. It only works charged, so top it up on a schedule rather than when you need it.
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Portable Jump Starter Battery Pack
Works with no second car, which is the whole point. Recharge it every few months; a pack left flat for two years is dead weight.
1If you are stuck in snow, CDC and NHTSA both advise clearing snow from the exhaust pipe before running the engine, running it only sporadically, and cracking a window; a blocked pipe can push carbon monoxide back into the cabin.
2Pack the kit so the safety gear is reachable with a full trunk. A kit under the luggage is a kit you will not dig out on the shoulder in the rain.
3Recharge the jump pack and check tire pressures twice a year when the clocks change. Both fail silently, and both fail at the worst possible moment.
4Keep a paper copy of your roadside assistance number and insurance card in the glovebox. The breakdown and the dead phone tend to arrive together.
Common questions
What should be in a car emergency kit?
The core is visibility, power, and warmth: reflective triangles and a high-visibility vest, a charged jump pack, a tire inflator and gauge, a first aid kit, and emergency blankets. Add a multi-tool, work gloves, and a flashlight, plus an ice scraper and a shovel in winter. Keep a window breaker and seatbelt cutter in the cabin rather than the trunk.
What should I do if my car breaks down on a busy road?
Get out of the travel lane if you can, put the hazards on, and call 911 or your roadside assistance provider before doing anything else. Whether to stay in the vehicle or leave it depends on where you have stopped and on your state's rules, and published guidance differs, so follow the direction of the dispatcher or responding officer rather than a general rule. Note your location, a mile marker, exit, or GPS coordinates, so help can find you.
Do I still need jumper cables if I have a jump pack?
A jump pack is the more useful of the two, since it works without a second vehicle or a stranger willing to help. Cables are worth keeping as backup because they never run out of charge and they let someone else jump you if your pack is flat. If you keep only one, keep the pack and charge it on a schedule.